I'll improve that for the next spin.īill, just PM me with your address and I'll drop one in the mail. The manual says worst case (top or deck lid up or down) is 70A so I have two in parallel for the pump. The parts I used on this pass can handle 55A. Someone asked about cost - I haven't worked it through to get a solid number but one board should be less than a set of four relays from the usual parts houses. I'd need some help from someone with a bullet bird to confirm that the mounting plate is the same to be sure that the holes all line up correctly. I took a look at the 61-63 setup and it looks like everything's the same but the relays are arranged differently which would require a different board layout (not a big deal). Sorry if this is a double post I thought I posted a reply but it didn't seem to show up. It's not insulated so you have to be careful to keep it from touching anything but it's still kind of nice for diagnosing electrical issues. The wire is ground since it doesn't have a case like a real relay. They have a button to force them on, an LED for the coil, and one for each pole to show current draw. They can be made to take the place of either a single or double pole relay. If anyone wants to play with these let me know I made eight and now I don't really need them. I started by making individual relays but didn't really think through how I was going to mount them and decided it made more sense to have a single board for each bank. Mine's a '66 so I designed to that it should work on any 64-66 but I don't know as much about the older ones so I'd have to look into what it would take to make it universal. Also, it'd be nice if it had a cable with buttons for remote control so you could manually unlock and open the trunk if a limit switch fails or gets stuck. I'd need to be really sure it could survive an overcurrent condition like a shorted solenoid or motor coil without failing or doing anything unexpected. It needs to be potted or conformally coated so it'd be protected against shorts and corrosion. I'd need to do a bunch of things to it before it'd be ready to share. Thanks for the encouragement! I really only did it because I thought it would help me diagnose my completely dismantled system faster but I'm sure others would find it useful, too. I've already replaced the top up limit switch, which was pretty well destroyed, and I need to somehow bend one of the deck cylinder limit switches' mounting bracket back into shape.Īnyway, I hope you find this interesting. Next step will be to disassemble and (I hope) rebuild the pump. I also learned that the solenoid valves all seem to work and the pump spins in both directions but it leaks. Using it I've found that the deck lock and panel retract motors are both working, though the panel motor has a little jump in it as it cycles that makes me think its gearbox has a bad tooth (I haven't put the panel back on yet so it's running unloaded). A yellow LED next to the button lights to indicate that the "coil" is energized and a green one by each pole of the relay lights to show how much current is being drawn through that pole (brighter=more). This is it installed on the left side (if I ever re-spin it I need to make a little more room between the connectors and add cutouts to access the screws that hold the plate to the car):Īnd it works! Pressing a button turns on the associated relay. Here's what it looks like next to the original relays: I sized it to mount on the plate where the relays were. It connects without needing to cut the harness plus it has no mechanical contacts, just really big transistors. I know from what I've read here how difficult it can be to test and track down electrical problems with the top so I made my own solid state relay bank circuit board (day job, meet hobby). Both banks of relays were pretty corroded. I'm trying to replace only what I have to (like the top ram with the bent shaft). It's all there but some of it's pretty rotted or bent. It runs pretty well but when I got it the convertible top bits had all been disassembled by a previous owner. I have a '66 Q-code convertible that looks as though it sat for many years. I've been lurking and learning here for quite a bit and I want to share my project with you.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |